Vintage Diamond Cuts: A Quick Guide

For those diamond shoppers who are obsessed with vintage style, or even for someone looking for a change from the common modern diamond cuts, vintage and antique shapes are an excellent alternative. There are several different vintage diamond cuts still on the market today. These include: point cuts, single cuts, rose cut diamonds, old mine cushion cuts, old European cuts, and Asschers. These antique diamond shapes are a throwback to as early as the Middle Ages, when diamond cutting was a new phenomenon.

If vintage diamond cuts are such a great alternative to modern shapes, then why aren’t they more widely advertised and sold? This is because diamond cutting priorities, tastes, and technology have changed over the years. Modern diamond shapes are cut to maximize sparkle, but vintage diamond cuts are meant to maximize carat weight. In today’s market, sparkle is still most shoppers’ first priority. Unless that changes, vintage diamond cuts will remain an unconventional choice.

Point Cut Diamonds

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Point cut diamonds date back to the Middle Ages. Widely recognized as the first diamond cut, a point diamond is not actually “cut” at all, at least not by modern diamond cutting standards. Point cuts were created by keeping a diamond in a natural octahedron shape and polishing it to a point (hence the name). This way, the natural octahedral facets were more symmetrical. Improved symmetry plus a fine polish job combine in the point cut to create a much sparklier diamond.

Single Cuts

A diagram of a single cut diamond from different angles. Photo credit: All About Gemstones.

Also known as the eight cut, single cut diamonds traditionally have eight crown facets and eight pavilion facets. Single cuts, known for their octagonal shape, can be dated back to the 1300s. Today, single cuts have been modified to have a rounder shape, and they have more facets. They are often used in micropavé diamond jewelry, to enhance the sparkle of larger brilliant cut diamonds.

Rose Cut Diamonds

Originating in the mid-16^th century, rose-cut diamonds are named for their shape, which should resemble a rosebud in bloom. Rose cuts have triangular facets, but are circular in shape. It used to be the case that you could only find rose cut diamonds in antique pieces, but they have recently become more popular again. Jennifer Aniston’s massive yellow gold engagement ring features a rose cut diamond.

Old Mine Cut

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The Old Mine cut is the predecessor of the modern cushion-cut diamond. It shares the same pillow-like silhouette as the cushion-cut, but with larger facets. The old mine cut was most popular in the 18th and 19th centuries and was cut to sparkle in the candlelight. 

​Learn More About the Old Mine Cut​

Old European Cut

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About 100 years after the Old Mine cut was invented, the Old European cut was born. Old European cuts are known as being the predecessor of today’s ever-popular round brilliant. They are circular in shape, and quite similar to the old mine cut in terms of faceting. Because it is so close to the modern round brilliant cut, the old European shape is often described as the most “advanced” vintage diamond cut.

​Learn More About the Old European Cut​

Asscher Cut Diamonds

In addition to cushion cuts, Asscher cut diamonds are a modern take on a vintage diamond shape. Created in 1902 by Joseph Asscher, the Asscher cut was the first patented “signature” diamond cut. The Asscher cut diamond has been one of the most popular diamond cuts since its invention. Today, Asscher cuts have less pronounced corners, more facets, and a larger table than they had when they were first developed.